Drink of the Week: Tatomer Hinter der Mauer White Blend at Columbia’s The Vino


$14.99 per 750 milliliter bottle. 2501 Main St. thevinogarage.com.

To say the pandemic has been rough on alcohol producers everywhere is an understatement.

But, as they say, necessity is the mother of invention. When California Central Coast wine maker Graham Tatomer was unable to get grapes in the quality he was used to for his exceptional wines, he pivoted to creating a blend.

The name “Hinter der Mauer” is a term Tatomer learned when harvesting grapes in Austria which roughly translates to “back against the wall” for the tight spaces between the vines and the terraces. The fittingly named wine is also a fitting wine for our current pre-spring bout of crisp weather. There’s lots of bright citrus in the nose and throughout as you drink along with the slightest bite of pepper attributed to the grapes being 70 percent Grüner Veltliner and 30 percent Riesling.

The wine’s dry, acidic nature also makes it wonderful for pairing with just about any meal, but should do exceptionally well with spicy dishes like curries or Mexican. Tatomer’s wines usually run more expensive than this, but this white table wine is marked at a much more affordable price, which hopefully means it should expose a great winemaker to drinkers who may have been reluctant to try his wares at a higher price.

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