This blue chip Russian River pinot noir offers all the hallmarks of the region: Dense, black cherry at the core, well-extracted, then cola and a pinch of pepper. The intensity can be daunting at times, bordering on jammy if you’re enjoying this on its own. A slight chill and pairing with a meal give this DuMol some more room to work, letting notes of lavender, baking spice, and some clove emerge. It’s a solid showing, but I’ve had more soulful, nuanced wines from DuMol.
B+ / $95 / dumol.com
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